1960s | Coats | Pattern Catalogs

Marfy Patterns

October 21, 2014

Has anyone here ever sewn a Marfy pattern?  I found them via Butterick and am in LOVE.  I am, however, a bit intimidated by them.  There are apparently no instructions, and they don’t have seam or hem allowances.  They are pre-cut and single-sized.  I really want to try, but don’t want to waste money on fabric or the pattern and end up failing like I did with the German coat of doom.

Here is a picture of the pattern I want to get: F3472, Marfy Coat

I really want to make a winter coat this winter, one that I can wear with a petticoat and 50s dress.  This is the best pattern I have found so far.  But it scares me!  The only reviews of Marfy patterns I can find are of blouses, which would be a lot easier than a coat.

Thoughts?  Suggestions?  Help, please!  I’m in love with this coat and just can’t stand it!

  1. I have sewn a coat before and the construction wasn’t much different then putting together say a blouse, except that it had a full lining. Have you tried searching for reviews on this pattern? Pattern Review might have something on it with some helpful tips- a lot of reviewers there will let you know any issues they had with a pattern, and how easy or difficult it was to put together. There are 3 pages of Marfy cot pattern reviews there.

    http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl

    I’ve never done any Marfy patterns but I’ve occasionally browsed them. Good luck if you decide to take this on!

  2. Like Deb, I have never sewn with Marfy patterns but I have looked at them. I don’t really buy new patterns anymore, but when I did, I found the Marfy designs tempting but expensive.
    According to the website from which I used to buy patterns here in the Netherlands (I’m not including a link because all the information is only in Dutch) Marfy patterns are “for the experienced seamstress and/or as a starting point for professional dressmakers”. They are quite clear about it and it reads like a warning…
    I wouldn’t be too worried about the fact that seam allowance is not included, that’s an easy thing to add yourself. However, there are more issues with Marfy: No instructions (so, if you normally feel like you need to follow the instructions when making a more complicated garment like a coat, practice some more before trying a Marfy pattern) for fairly complex designs (it looks like this coat has a fitted kimono sleeve. So it probably has an underarm gusset of some kind. Not the easiest thing to sew) and not even a technical drawing or a cutting lay-out. Even the amount of fabric they tell you to buy is based on ‘the average size’. You have to calculate what you will actually need from there. They really assume you know a lot about making clothes. Of course, with all these things, you know whether or not you need them.
    The one-size-thing would worry me more though. Marfy is Italian and it is HIGHLY recommended that you refer to their sizing chart when ordering patterns. They run small, very small. Of course, if this just meant going up a few numbers, it would be fine but how often does any of us fit exactly in one size on a sizing chart? At that point, multisize pattern become really useful because they make the necessary alterations easier.
    As much as I like to encourage anyone to make the things they really like, I would advice you only to try and make this coat if you fit reasonably well in the Marfy size range and making a normal coat has no secrets to you.
    Otherwise, you would do yourself a favour by looking out for a sort-of similar design from a pattern company you are more familiar with.

  3. I know experienced sewers have good things to say about Marfy. Generally that they include lots of detail, beautiful cutting and more styling than the standard pattern houses. All of this of course adds challenges. If this is an expensive route, why no try one of their free downloads will give you some idea of what you are dealing with especially size wise. The absence of seam guides is not a big problem, you can either mock up a small 1″ guide and add that yourself by hand or there are double headed tracing wheels which allow to set a specific allowance, and trace around the pattern using tracing paper or carbon paper.

  4. I’m a beginning sewer, but I believe you need to be familiar with garment construction before tackling a Marfy pattern – as other commenters point out, the designs are lovely but you are on your on in regards to construction.
    If you have thought about enrolling in a sewing course, that would be a great place to tackle a Marfy coat as your teacher can guide you in the construction process. In fact, there’s a sewing teacher called Jane Foster in California who does exactly this:
    http://www.janefosterdesign.com/marfy_pattern_challenge.html

    1. I was looking for a 1940 dress and I saw this coat and I immediately remember your post . Of course this is not the pattern you want but if you are a little bit creative you may adjust a few things here and there.

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/1940s-Vintage-WWII-Easily-Made-Dress-Unused-1942-Du-Barry-Sewing-Pattern-Sz-34-B-/360946944583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item540a1d4a47

      and this other one is really cute too.
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1940s-Dress-Coat-Sewing-Pattern-Butterick-1288-Size-18-Bust-36-WWII-/311142043687?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item487182d027

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