1940s | Coats | Jackets

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #15: The Great Outdoors

September 13, 2014

For my second entry for the Great Outdoors challenge I made a red wool version of Simplicity 4366.

I love Ike jackets and I wanted one of my own for a while but then I found the red wool and decided that I would pay homage to the Ike jacket but make it my own. I have to give credit to Tasha from By Gum By Golly for starting the sewing bug for the jacket. Tahsa made a great 1940’s jacket for Rochelle’s Sew for Victory last year (2013) in a wonderful green fabric. From the moment I saw the jacket I knew I had to make one and here it is. The shoulders are gathered into a yoke and the waist of the jacket is gathered into a waistband. The sleeves are gathered at the wrist and finished with a cuff that buttons. The buttons are self covered and the red wool cooperated in waves that Murphy’s buttons couldn’t dream of doing. Oh and I swear the fabric is red the camera appears to have made it a bit pink.

The pattern called for self made shoulder pads but instead of stuffing them I used two layers of crinoline. The crinoline made the jackets shoulders keep their shape but don’t make me look like a linebacker (which I appreciate). The Jacket is also fully lined; the pattern didn’t call for it but I knew I wanted it lined because of the wool. I had to adjust the facing piece because of the change but that was a quick fix. For all of the buttonholes I used my grandmothers Singer 9134 which is cranky but works most of the time. I added the pockets to the front, they’re from Colette Pattern’s blog Coletterie and can be found here. For attaching the pockets I had to wing it since I don’t have the original Colette pattern the pockets actually go to.

The Scoop:

Fabric: Red Tango Wool and Medieval Blue Lining
Pattern: Simplicity 4366
Year: 1940’s if anyone knows the specific date I would be grateful
Notions: 9 self covered buttons
First worn?: Only around the house, it’s not cool enough outside to wear wool
Make again?: Yes but the peplum version in green corduroy with flannel lining
Total cost: Pattern $12 but I’ll say $6 because there’s a skirt pattern with the jacket, Wool Fabric $19.24, Lining $9.98, Self Covered Button Kit $5.99 so total $41.21
  1. Love your jacket, especially in red! I’m curious about your crinoline shoulder pads: I row, so do tend to have that linebacker look all on my own, and avoid any patterns with shoulder pads, even if I love the style. How do you make them with crinoline? Just use crinoline instead of batting?

  2. Waterbear I just made a square sandwich of wool, 2 layers of crinoline, and wool. I serged around the edges then cut it to make two triangles. I serged the remaining sides on each and then tacked them in.. They give enough support to the sleeve without too much bulk. you could also make them any shape you want I just followed my pattern and it called for the triangular pads. I hope this helps!

    1. Thanks! I’ve been eyeing a vintage jacket pattern but kept putting it off not knowing what to do with the shoulders, thinking I would have to alter to get rid of the pads. I’ll try crinoline instead!

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