1920s | 1930s

Drafting for Fall&Winter!

September 17, 2014

 

It seems, when you design and construct your own entire wardrobes four times a year, that the seasons just creep too fast upon you. So many ideas, so many things to make and do and never enough time is the old way of saying things. Am I in this sphere of plight all on my own? Surely not. I hear it enough.

Anyhow, enough with my prattle….

This season is sleeves for me and I’ve drafted two thus far. I saw a beautiful wedding sleeve (photographed in green) in Bellas catalogue from late 1920s the other day and I just had to have it.  I couldn’t afford the catalogue at that moment so I had to keep it in my minds eye painfully until I got home from the antique shop to sketch it out (that will be the last time I forget my sketch pad believe you me). Luckily it wasn’t the only time I’ve seen the sleeve and there’s a similar one being used in wedding fashions of today. It’s basically just a long sleeve unraveled like apple peels and slashed and spread for gathers. The pattern looks like a snake children make in kindergarten.

Drafted fairly quickly I was really pleased with myself that I used too many notches because they were well needed to sew the sleeve precisely.  Here is the muslin for it…

photo 3 (1) Plenty of threads and wrinkles!

I didn’t get enough of sleeve drafting so I did another in a popular fashion of 1932. Since sleeves are big this season I got creative  about where the “bigness” was going to be. On the first one it was fuller all around, on the blue muslin the amplitude was on the lower half towards the wrist. Almost as if the wrists had wings. This sleeve is fully lined but not necessary with the facing I also drafted along with it.  Here it is…

photo 2 (2)    This sleeve was too much fun as well!

Here are both of the sleeves on the mid cowl I drafted to test them out.

photo 1 (1)

There are a few things I would fix on the green muslin but I am really rather pleased with them both.  And as I am 6 months along there are plenty of things I can make for the sleeves to go on so I may wear them in the winter when the baby is here and I’ve gone back to normal.

Well, that’s all from me for now, do take care!

To boot, you can find more on my site!     www.1930slife.blogspot.com

 

  1. I know what you mean about never having enough time to make and do all the things you would like… Especially if you draft all your own patterns! I tend to think drafting my own takes away a lot of guesswork and frustration when it comes to fitting but it does take time.
    I usually draft each garment as a whole though (occasionally borrowing tried and tested elements from earlier ones). That said, I like your sleeves!
    I’ve never seen the design of the green one before (even though I’ve worked in bridal. Only strapless dresses and simple boleros there! Lazy 21rst century drafting) and I would be interested to see it on a real garment and to hear how it looks and behaves when worn.
    I am familiar with the blue design. Such a popular shape in the mid 1930’s! I’m always a bit intimidated by those big decorated sleeves. Afraid they would just look ‘too much’ or be terribly in the way when doing things like cooking or typing. But they are really nice…

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