Vogue 1083 Vintage Camel Coat

by thelittletailoress

in 1950s

Hi there, as this is my first post on WeSewRetro I though I would share one of my favourite coats that I made this past winter.

At the start of the Autumn it occurred to me that I needed some staple, comfy, warm winter garments and went out on a couple of trips to the shops to pick some up. The truth of the matter is that even if you knit and sew you just can’t make EVERTHING yourself.

On my travels I couldn’t help noticing gorgeous camel coats everywhere. I loved the warm neutral colour and the lovely soft fabrics.

Plus they brought to mind images of Marilyn Monroe in the film My week with Marilyn. I knew I had to make one but wasn’t sure on the style, alot of the ones around seemed to be cut in the Crombie style which I didn’t think would really suit me.

Then I saw the Jill Sander one below in a magazine and fell in LOVE! It reminded me a lot of one that Kate wears in the TV series Pan Am!

Jill Sander Coat

 

Kate Pan Am Coat

Marilyn-camel-coat
As well as being beautiful (in my opinion) this full, knee length kind of style fitted my requirements perfectly as I was in need of a winter coat that was long enough to wear over skirts and dresses.

I had a look through some Vintage patterns but ended up choosing a reproduction pattern originally from 1953: Vintage Vogue 1083.

Vogue 1083

I was lucky enough to find some lovely 100% Camel hair coating from one of my favourite UK online fabrics shops Truro Fabrics.

They also had a gold lining that worked really well with it. I am a big fan of their ‘superior linings’, they are completely static free, breathable, easy to work with and they hang really nicely.

The coat calls for interlining and luckily I had some cotton flannel that I bought from The Cotton Patch left in my stash. Their flannel is lovely and as it’s primarily intended for quilting it is super duper wide! I also had JUST enough hair canvas for the front of the coat. Don’t you love it when that happens?

I decided to make up the version without the closure but to lower the neckline. I made up a calico toile of the coat in the size 6 (I would normally make up a size 8 but this looked big.) then I made the following alterations.

* I shortened the hemline by 25cm as the coat was mid calf and I wanted it knee length
* I removed 5 cm fullness from the front panel by slashing from the hemline to mid shoulder and overlapping 5cm at the hemline sloping up to 0 at the shoulder.
* I removed 10cm fullness from the back panel pattern piece in the same way. I did this at two separate points overlapping each 5cm at the hem as this is less disruptive to the shape of the pattern piece than removing hemline fullness all in one spot.
* I ignored the fish dart at the neckline and slashed and spread the outer edge of the collar 1.5cm at the back of the neck- the combination of these two alterations gave me the lower break line for the shawl collar that I wanted.
* I curved the drop shoulder down by 1.5cm on the front and back panel- this was because the drop shoulders were square and didn’t sit as smoothly as I wanted where the sleeve was attached.
* I removed 6 cm of width from the centre of the sleeves. This dealt with the amount removed from the drop shoulders but also removed the unnecessary amount of ease included in the sleeves. They were HUGE!
* I transferred these alterations back to the paper pattern pieces and then made the same alterations to the corresponding lining/ facing/ interfacing pieces.

Construction wise I followed the pattern instructions pretty closely, being a vintage reproduction it uses a lot of the traditional techniques that I love. I added pad stitching to the shawl collar and stitched the hair canvas down with cotton tape, trimming the canvas so that it didn’t extend into the seam allowances. This is a couture technique that helps to create nice flat, crisp edges.

coat-detail-4

The facing and hem are stitched invisibly down to the inside of the coat by hand. The interlining is then stitched to the inside of the coat along all the seam lines by hand and then finally the lining is attached by hand on top of this!

Before embarking upon all this hand stitching I ran my thread through some tailor’s beeswax as this really helps prevent knots from forming in your thread. Once the coat was completed I created thread chains to loosely attach the lining to the coat at the side seams. This keeps everything hanging nicely and stops the lining twisting or riding up.

Camel-Coat-front

This would be a fantastic project for anyone who is interested in sewing a coat using traditional techniques but that feels they need a little more instruction than may be offered from an original vintage pattern (the instructions in these can be a little thin on the ground.). It is not however a great choice for anyone who doesn’t like hand work- consider yourself warned people!

back-of-camel-coat

camel-Coat-hair

To add a tiny bit of interest I bought a little silver vintage poodle brooch from Candy Says vintage to pop on the lapel. I love her and I think she looks right at home!

I hope you like my post and the coat, I hope I did the pattern justice.

If you have the time to see more of what I have been up to and some of my other vinatge sewing projects then please pop over to my sewing blog The Little Tailoress

Thanks so much for reading!

Ami

This post was written by...

– who has written 5 posts on WeSewRetro.com.

Hello! My name is Ami. I just got married and live in London, England with my lovely husband Jan, and our crazy little pooch called Gatsby. My main passion in life is sewing. I have been sewing since my mother taught me as a little girl- and have been making my own clothes since I was a teenager.

thelittletailoress's posts / thelittletailoress's website

{ 21 comments… read them below or add one }

Tegan February 15, 2013 at 6:10 pm

Oh that looks gorgeous! It really is the perfect color for you, and the fit looks great.

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Gill February 15, 2013 at 6:47 pm

Fantastic, it looks so professional, you must be very proud. I’ve been sewing for years (probably since before you were born!) and although I did once make a coat, I didn’t do all the proper tailoring techniques. I feel very inadequate!
All you need now is the white headscarf, and you can be Marilyn x

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Jessamyn February 15, 2013 at 6:48 pm

Elegant and classic. Beautifully done. Brava!

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Katherine February 15, 2013 at 10:14 pm

Uh-oh, Amy – your pics have disappeared. Looks like we drove enough traffic to cause you to go over the bandwidth limit on your site. If you can email the pics to me (katherine at wesewretro.com), I’ll host them over here for you.

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Anonymous February 16, 2013 at 4:21 am

Oh my goodness – how talented are you?!

That coat looks like designer couture and suits you down to the ground.

I only hope my skills one day will lead me to making something as classic and beautiful as this – great job!

http://www.mancunianvintage.com

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CarmencitaB February 16, 2013 at 4:27 am

Awesome just awesome!

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Mainelydad February 16, 2013 at 4:38 am

Wow, this is an amazing coat! I also love all the handwork that goes into traditional tailoring. It may be time consuming, but look at the results you got. Simply gorgeous.

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Nathalie February 16, 2013 at 6:06 am

Gorgeous, gorgeous coat and the quality looks amazing. Really suits your style. You look like you’ve just walked off the set of The Hour.

And thanks for including that address for Truro Fabrics. They seem to have the most beautiful wools (some of that yummy Airforce blue cashmere wool would go down a treat, and amazing boiled wools in every colour). I can see an order coming along!

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Francesca February 16, 2013 at 8:30 am

Beautiful! Wow! I hope one day I can sew as well as this- it’s divine!!

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foamofdays February 16, 2013 at 9:23 am

Wow! What a great job! Gorgeous coat, looks so lovely on you! Thanks for the detailed description…

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Bessie Miller February 16, 2013 at 11:38 am

Gorgeous! How inspiring. You did a lovely job!

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Anonymous February 16, 2013 at 11:51 am

Well done! You have inspired me. I have that pattern also. The look is beautiful on you. You are just about as cute as can be! Thanks for sharing!

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Jeanne February 16, 2013 at 1:27 pm

The colour looks stunning on you, a very beautiful coat!

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Bohemian Valhalla February 16, 2013 at 3:53 pm

Those Camel Hair Coats are a Classic and NEVER go out of Style… they are eternally Chic and so flattering to the Feminine Form! Thanks for stopping by for a Blog Visit and encouraging me… Goddess… not sure I’m worthy of that Title but I’ll receive it with humility and grace since it is so uplifting and flattering! *Winks*

Hugs… Dawn… The Bohemian

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Bohemian Valhalla February 16, 2013 at 3:55 pm

Woops… I’m not sure if Redhead Sadie will get this Message!? Just realized several Talented Artists are involved in this Blog’s Post!

Dawn… The Bohemian

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Baschki robertson February 16, 2013 at 8:47 pm

Who did the work on the floor in that room? Can you find out why they did not put an escuteon on the radiator pipe?

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Baschki robertson February 16, 2013 at 8:52 pm

That was my boyfriend who posted that comment. He knows nothing about anything. And he’s 59, which is old enough to know better than to fool around on my ipad, but apparently not so much! I love the coat. Gorgeous hand tailoring. It will last you many years.

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Cat February 17, 2013 at 2:19 am

Absolutely fabulous!

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Meg February 17, 2013 at 4:39 pm

LOVE!

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Miss Crayola Creepy February 18, 2013 at 3:58 pm

Oh wow, your coat turned out so beautiful! And what ever happened to Pan Am?!?! I liked that show!!!

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Francie June 24, 2013 at 2:45 pm

What a classic combination – dainty figure, white gold hair and a wrap-camel coat! Congratulations on the beautiful sewing! I’ve been sewing for 50 years and have yet to try anything so daunting.

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