1950s | Coats | Dresses | Vintage Sewing

Quick Question on Techniques

November 25, 2012

Hi, All!
See how the printed pattern is placed at angles on the skirt portion of view “2,” giving it kind of a chevron design? I’m curious to know how that was done. I mean, I understand that the print natural is straight, based on how it looks on the top portion, so I’m wondering about the actual placement of the pattern on the fabric for the skirt portion.

Since I already have the pattern for a kimono sleeve dress of similar style, I don’t really want to buy another pattern just to find out. Thanks!

  1. The pattern piece is just placed on the bias, or diagonally. Note, this uses a lot more fabric to cut this way. Each side of the front (and back) would be cut individually ensuring the stripes match up, each needs to be cut facing a different direction (to ensure the stripes don’t go the same way). It may pay to YouTube the cutting technique as it is hard to explain in text.

  2. Yeah, it’s cut on the bias which is at a 45 degree angle. It does take more fabric that way but it looks super cool. Don’t forget to let the skirt hang for a good 24-48 hours before hemming because the bias tends to stretch more!

  3. since you don’t already own this pattern, imagine that the center seam of the skirt would be cut on the straight grain. in order to get the chevron effect, you’d cut the stripes on the 45* angle FROM THE STRAIGHT GRAIN.
    if your stripes are perfectly non-directional, that’s all you need to know. if the stripes are directional, such as flowers going toward one direction, then make sure that your stripes FACE one another, i.e. flowers run toward each other in the center. every piece should be cut separately. match all four seams.

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