McCall 4464 by Chanel

by PatternVault on December 2, 2011 · 15 comments

in 1920s,Dresses

This week’s Twenties designer pattern is McCall 4464, an evening dress by Chanel. Here’s the pattern envelope:

McCall 4464 Chanel 1920s evening dress pattern

This one is also from 1926; it’s shown on the same catalogue page as Naomi’s Patou dress. Apart from grading the bust down one size, I made the pattern as-is, but without the rosettes.

I used a black satin for both dress and slip. I hadn’t sewn with satin before, but this one behaved itself pretty well. I also tried out a bias strip facing to finish the drapery section. If I were to make the dress again I think I would choose a lighter fabric, although maybe not a chiffon as seems to be shown in the catalogue illustration—I wouldn’t have the patience for French-seamed streamers!

Here I am in the finished dress:

(Do any of you folks know where to find repro ’20s shoes like those in the pattern engraving? I just love them…)

For more details and photos see my blog.

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{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }

audrey86 December 2, 2011 at 2:57 pm

It’s a very lovely dress, so clean and simple but very elegant. For great vintage reproduction shoes take a look at: http://www.remixvintageshoes.com/heels.html Let us know if you bought some. :-) For 1920′s – 1970′s I believe.

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Bishnu November 24, 2012 at 12:15 pm

right, who needs a shirt when you have such an amazing tube dress! i like the secnod version of the outfit, with the print skirt pulled up over the bust… the lame tube dress is cool, i’d love to have a skirt like that! and i love your accessoires too, the shoes and the clutch are amazing!

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Katherine December 2, 2011 at 3:36 pm

I could never wear this – the temptation to be constantly spinning around to slap people with the streamers would be too much ;) Great work as always!

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Debi December 2, 2011 at 3:51 pm

Wow! What an amazing pattern find! I just love it!!!

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Sarah December 3, 2011 at 1:47 pm

Thanks, Debi! I just about died when I found it.

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Nathalie December 3, 2011 at 6:39 am

Very beautiful. It makes for a wonderful evening dress, and not just for Halloween.

In your blog you mention shortening the straps and talk about foundation garments. I’m wondering however what would have been worn with this given how low on the bust the dress sits in the illustration?

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Sarah December 3, 2011 at 2:43 pm

Thanks so much, Nathalie!
That’s a good question about foundation garments. My understanding of 20s underpinnings is that girdles were worn, either with an unstructured bra or maybe over a chemise. The dress straps on McCall 4464 are wide enough to cover lingerie straps. But I’m certainly no expert! I simply assumed I was more comfortable than a Twenties wearer would have been..

About the d├ęcolletage, I shortened the straps by about 2.5″ – 3″ thinking I should go by the natural waist mark.. plus, any lower on the bust felt strange. I suspect the illustration is stylized and elongates the upper chest; compare these lingerie patterns on the wiki:
http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/McCall_4311
http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/McCall_1653

Maybe I’ll try to look further into Twenties lingerie for evening..

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Nathalie December 4, 2011 at 1:33 pm

Yes, I think you’re right about the stylisation – especially on the McCall 1653. That is sooo low that you’d need tit tape to get away wearing that in real life… or a lot of self-confidence!

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audrey86 December 3, 2011 at 12:58 pm

I’d love to have a copy of this pattern! Got hooked on it.

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Sarah December 3, 2011 at 2:46 pm

I found the same thing! The design really grew on me.

Thanks for the shoe tip—I’m coveting the booties..

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Mermaids Purse December 4, 2011 at 3:58 am

Beautiful! And it suits you so well :)

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Ande December 4, 2011 at 8:21 pm

Wow! What great work! Nice job!
I think John Fluevog has some shoes that may work for you. http://www.fluevog.com I believe the Bellevues or Miracle pumps would look great with your creation.

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Lauren December 4, 2011 at 9:01 pm

Completely awesome! Beautiful work!

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OhhhLulu December 6, 2011 at 8:01 am

wow, what a gorgeous pattern!

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Sarah December 6, 2011 at 7:41 pm

Many thanks for all your kind comments! Ande, thanks for reminding me about Fluevogs—Naomi has a pair of Bellevues.

For those of you who are interested in repro shoes, I did a little digging and found Aris Allen (http://www.arisallen.com), who make dance shoes including repro styles for swing dancing.

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