Difficult Redraft

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in Vintage Sewing

Today I redrafted this 1950′s pattern from Eva Dress: -

The pattern is a size 14 (32bust) which I am attempting to size up to a size 18 (36 bust). I thought that this would be a very simple pattern to sew, since it says on the pattern cover it is just one piece – it is not – there are facings for the tie, hem and an underarm gusset. I have some (rusty) sewing and drafting experience, but this is way more complicated than expected.

I am making some minor modifications – lengthening the hem to lower on the hip, and also adding length to the tie. I’m doing the 3/4 sleeve – still deciding if I will attempt the underarm gussett , or just skip it. I’ve got some old sheets to test it out on for a muslin, but I have a sinking feeling this may end up as a UFO.

Has anyone made this pattern, and if so, do you have any construction tips?

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{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }

CBH August 21, 2011 at 4:40 pm

It looks like a cool pattern to make! From what I imagine that this is sewn, it seems that it would be a very fast shirt. wish I had it. Wondering if you also need to add at the waist… then I think it would be a "simpler" task to add the 4 inches around the bust area.

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Molly August 21, 2011 at 4:47 pm

This type of blouse is so comfortable to wear and it looks really cute so worth the effort.

Don't ditch the underarm gusset or you won't be able to lift your arms! This style relies on it unfortunately.

When I grade up/down, I find it easier to do one size at a time to minimise mistakes. Sometimes it is easier and quicker to draft a bodice block and then compare the pattern shape to that and slash/redraw your bodice block to match.

Have you tried googling for tips ongrading/drafting/resizing kimono or drop-shoulder bodice blocks? There is such a resource out there someone must have written some tips?

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K.Line August 21, 2011 at 6:31 pm

In my experience, it's much more challenging to alter a 1 piece garment than a garment with many pieces. Seams give you leeway.

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C August 21, 2011 at 6:35 pm

Lovely pattern! I'm in the middle of altering a kimono sleeve attached to a yoke which is proving to be much harder that I anticipated.
I'm finding quite a lot of help (both with grading and altering) from 'Fit for Real People' http://palmerpletsch.com/fitbookupdate.htm

Generally I have found the easiest thing has been to grade first (if needed) and then make alterations from top to bottom, so I wouldn't be doing anything to the hip or waist until your bust and shoulders are sorted out.

Hope that helps.

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Linda T August 21, 2011 at 8:04 pm

great pattern – wish I could find a copy!

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Anne Beekman August 26, 2011 at 9:15 am

Thanks all for the feedback. I'll stick to it and post the results.

If you want the pattern it's available in a size 14 only on Eva Dress. The link is in my post. There are pretty good instructions on redrafting on the pattern, but like most older patterns, it requires some experience to decipher.

If you make it yourself, please post so we can compare.

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