Vogue 2960 fitting issues – your assistance would be helpful

by sewredhot on September 11, 2010 · 8 comments

in Vintage Sewing

Hi all

I’m currently working on the gorgeous vogue 2960.

and I wonder if I could have your valuable assistance with bodice fitting issues.

The front is nice although the shoulders slip off – wondering if probably just some bra-keeping device will solve this issue.   So not too concerned here.  Do you think it could come up just a smidge higher though ?

But the back is where it all goes horribly wrong.

You can see if I stretch out it all sits flat so I’m presuming I need that ease?  But when its relaxed is super baggy.

I tried taking in the upper bodice back by a couple of centimetres:

but it didnt help, it just ends up gaping elsewhere.

And just to add another issue into the mix, I’m thinking of raising the back by a few centimetres as I don’t want to be running around buying new bras so that the strap doesnt show.  Obviously this will impact any fitting adjustments I make now.   I’d be grateful if you could consider this for me?

And PS my body doesnt look this bad in real life.  Its some sort of fisheye perspective problem with the camera!  The freckles I can’t do anything about though.  And the muffin top is being addressed by twice weekly zumba.

Thanks very much for looking and for any help you can give me.

Lore
x

I’ve blogged about it here, but its the same post, so I’ll be checking both for your invaluable advice.

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{ 8 comments… read them below or add one }

Pammie September 11, 2010 at 9:15 pm

Lore,
I don't know enough to comment – but I have the same pattern and can't wait to you get it done!

Pam

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Kristin September 11, 2010 at 9:23 pm

Would putting some lightweight elastic into the hem or facing of the back perhaps help? That way it would tighten up when relaxed.

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Katie September 11, 2010 at 9:53 pm

Perhaps if you pulled the back piece up at the shoulder seams, that might help. The front looks good so you don't want to just make the shoulder seams larger, but it looks like there's extra fabric in the length of the straps in the back. If you shorten those, it may move the back up so your bra doesn't show, and take care of wrinkles, too! :)

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sewinghappyplace September 11, 2010 at 9:55 pm

The bodice looks like it might be a tad long waisted on you. That may be pushing the back up to make those wrinkles. Experiment with taking out 1/2 inch or so horizontally in the midriff pieces front and back. Good Luck.

This will be gorgeous when you are done.

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Stef September 12, 2010 at 4:47 am

I think your problem might actually be that this pattern is too wide for you in the shoulders. I had to adjust Vogue 2902 for similar issues. Try this out on the muslin and see if it helps:

1. At the front collar, maybe just below your collar bones or just outside of the button placket, pinch in a fake dart on each side. You want the seam of the collar to fall just a little bit inward of your bra straps. Size estimate: The darts will probably take about 0.5-1.5 inches of collar off of each side.

2.On the back, make horizontal fake darts right about where the back scoop starts being horizontal. (Sorry, this is a little bit hard to explain in text.) Pinch in so that the sides of the back scoopout stand a little bit more vertically and so that the back scoopout forms a more natural join with the collar. This will get rid of a lot of your bagginess.

3. You'll need to repin the shoulders a bit to match the curvature of your own shoulders.

4. I agree with SewingHappyPlace– this pattern is built for a tall person! ^__^ You should take out a bit in the midriff like she said, and I bet you'll like the fit of the bodice better if you make a height adjustment between your bust and the shoulder as well. Keep pinching fabric until the tucks are under your bust and your bust matches Vogue's bustline symbol.

5. Transfer all of the pinned alterations back to your pattern pieces and re-cut.

Godspeed! And no, you really don't need that ease unless you intend to compete at a track and field event in this dress.

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NewVintageLady September 12, 2010 at 7:50 am
Jenny September 12, 2010 at 8:51 am

I had similar issues with this bodice. I wrote about my fixes here: http://chronicallyuncool.blogspot.com/2008/06/dress-for-strolling-in-sunshine.html

P.S. Body pride, lady! Your body is the most fantastic tool and container for your brain you will ever have. Learn to love it for what it can do! Or invest in clothes and undergarments that make you feel spiffy. Or both!

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Our Heroine September 15, 2010 at 5:17 pm

I agree that the shoulders are too wide. NVL's tip looks like it would help greatly. The waist could definitely come up as well–you want the waist at your natural waist/narrowest point. If altering the angle of the shoulder straps helps I'd recommend another mockup to check fit. Midriff bands can be difficult to fit, don't despair :)

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